怎樣根據顏色、樣式和出席場合來選擇合適的領帶？How to choose a suitable tie？

先生們，往期文章中，我們已探討了領結的不同系法，本文將進一步介紹領帶的佩戴場合、顏色及花紋。工作面試不確定怎樣選擇合適的領帶？來看看本期領帶佩戴方法。

Dear gentlemen, we already saw many different tie』s knots but we didn』t clarify when you should wear a tie, which colour, which patterns? You have a job interview and are uncertain about the tie you chose? I invite you to discover the tie』s rules.

禮儀大師陸紀堯

Guillaume Rué de Bernadac

Rué de Bernadac先生專業的禮儀素養來自於他的家族背景。他的祖母和曾祖父是摩洛哥國王及其家庭成員的私人教師。

為什麼要佩戴領帶？

Why the tie?

這一男士配飾有助於減弱或增強不同的身形比例。掌握服裝整體顏色搭配至關重要，而領帶則是顏色連貫性的細節體現以及整體造型協調的關鍵。

This masculine accessory helps to attenuate or accentuate the different contrasts in our outfit. It is about mastering the colour』s associations on your attire with the colours ranges. The tie is the detail of the coherence and the key of your outfit harmony.

套裝中，領帶是唯一能體現穿衣者個性的元素。花紋的選擇有助於讓整體造型生動起來，當然沒有花紋也不會錯。

In a suit, the tie is the only element you can use as an original style, patterns will help to galvanize your attire, but no worries, the non-pattern tie never is a 「faux-pas」.

花紋

The pattern

充滿活力的常規條紋或直線條紋、圓點、格子紋等樣式都能用於工作場合。

Regular or straight line stripes bring vigorousness, polka-dot, check, etc. all those different patterns can be use in a work suit.

花紋樣式推薦細條紋或圓點，避免大尺寸花紋或與套裝重複的樣式。不要選擇有動物、水果、人物或其他離譜符號的樣式，也不要輕易嘗試那些帶有畫漬或底紋的「藝術領帶」。

Favour thin stripes and polka-dot, avoid every big size patterns and repetitions. All the animals, fruits, characters or any outrageous symbols are to forbid. It is the same idea for the 「artistic」 ties with painting stain or shadings.

錯誤示範

Outrageous patternsto avoid

素色套裝能有效突出花紋領帶，兩者的結合體現出優雅精緻的穿衣風格。但如果身穿帶花紋的套裝，就要選擇與套裝花紋同色的領帶。

The goal is to value the patterned tie, so wear it only with a plain suit for an elegant and sophisticated style. But if you wear a patterned suit, choose a tie with the same colour of the suit』s patterns.

避免套裝與領帶兩者花紋的重複。套裝和領帶可以同時具有條紋元素，但確保條紋的大小、顏色、方向和間距不一樣。

Avoid the 「pattern repetition」, you can wear stripes on your suit and tie but be sure the stripes are not the same size, colour, direction and space.

顏色

The colour

領帶顏色的選擇應從細節處得到啟發：如佩戴與鞋子、皮帶、紐扣等配飾同色系的領帶。

The right choice about the tie colour is in the details: inspire yourself with the colour of your shoes, your belt, your buttons, etc.

關於黑領帶：黑領帶簡單嚴肅，日常生活不建議佩戴，通常用於出席一些重要場合，如葬禮。黑領帶搭配黑套裝、微緊身長褲、馬甲、白襯衫、黑皮鞋能使整體造型精緻莊重。除了這些特殊場合，日常生活中，服務生常佩戴。

About the black tie: I do not recommend you to wear it, it is too common and simple for the daily life, but for an important occasion as a funeral, a high dining reception, etc. you can have a very sophisticated look with a black suit, the cigarette-trouser, a waistcoat, white shirt and black derbies. Except these particular occasions, in fact, you may notice that it s mostly for waiters.

套裝主色調為藍色：領帶可以保持藍綠色調，但也可選擇黃、橙或紅色來增加親和感。

If the suit dominance is blue: you can as well stay in blue or green tones, but you can wear yellow, orange and red ties to bring warmness to your attire.

套裝主色調為灰色：任何顏色都可以和灰色調搭配，但是盡量避免茶色和藍綠色，這些顏色顯得人太過嚴肅冷淡。

If the suit dominance is grey: every colour is possible with this tone, I just recommend you to avoid maroon or cyan, those colours give a too serious and cold style.

套裝主色調為米色-棕色系：優先選擇藍、綠和紅色（領帶顏色應比套裝更淺或更深）

If the suit dominance is beige-maroon: chose in the first-place tones as blue, green and red (more or less intense).

套裝顏色為非常規色：選擇與套裝同色系或相反色系的領帶（比如，藍綠色套裝選用藍/綠色領帶或紅色領帶搭配。）

If the suit dominance is a special colour: you can as well choose a tie according to your suit, in the same colour tone or chose one in the opposite ton (for example, if you have a cyan suit you can either choose a green or blue tie or either choose a red one).

場合

The occasion

面試：領帶要樸素。無花紋領帶搭配優雅的暗色系或中性色系套裝顯得更專業。

The job interview:the tie should be as sober as possible. You must value your professionalism with a non-patterned tie and an elegant dark and neutral suit.

日常工作: 根據公司的風格和所屬的部門來選擇。對於設計部門和銷售部，可嘗試明亮輕快的顏色；對於金融財務部門，需要凸顯優雅和精緻：推薦深色系的絲製領帶和其他上文推薦過的樣式。

The workdays: adapt your tie to your society』s style. For creative and sales department,coloured ties are great and appropriated. But financials department will prefer elegance and refinement: the silk tie in sober colour is always perfect, as well as any assortment we saw before.

家庭聚會：通過領帶打造自己的原創風格：大膽嘗試不同的花紋和顏色，推薦輕鬆的淺色調。（深色領帶太過嚴肅）

The family reunion: you have all rights to use your tie to have a more original attire: patterns and colours are welcomed. But I recommend you to opt for light colours (dark colours are too serious).

公司聚會：領帶的選擇應根據聚會主題來確定。根據白領結著裝規則不會錯。想了解更多？可查看《白領結盛典不打領帶 No tie for a White Tie gala》。

The society invitation: the tie must be choose depending on the theme chosen by the hosts. But you will be able to wear the white tie attire. To know more about it, here is our previous article《白領結盛典不打領帶 No tie for a White Tie gala》.

男士們，希望你們現在能對領帶及其佩戴方式、場合、搭配瞭然於胸。如果想進一步了解領結的系法，請參見《4種經典而優雅的領帶結打法Tie etiquette, 4 elegant knots》，《什麼是Black Tie Dress Code？》。

Dear gentlemen, I hope you are now more familiar with tie and how to wear them, where and with what kind of suit. If you want to know how to knot your tie, here are our previous articles《4種經典而優雅的領帶結打法Tie etiquette, 4 elegant knots》，《什麼是Black Tie Dress Code？》.

閱讀上期文章{公眾場合如何保持優雅？How to remain elegant in public?}

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