測評：格拉蘇蒂莫勒——潛水員的守護時計

本文由W&W專業腕錶測評網站出品

發條魚原創翻譯

Are you like me and love top-quality German dive watches with a no-nonsense attitude? Brands like Sinn, UTS, and of course Muhle Glashutte? If you do then I have a feeling youare going to enjoy the Rasmus 2000 collection of uber divers from our friends up in Glashutte. Pay no mind to the fact that the guys who designed this watch live in the coldmountains of Saxony, pretty far from any oceans. Further, a term you see on many of their watches is "Nautische Instrumente," which obviously is "nautical instrument." TheRasmus 2000 is just one of many ocean-worthy watches from the brand, and in my opinion is one of their best looking pieces at that.

你是不是像我一樣對德國頂級製表品牌有種莫名的熱愛？例如辛恩，UTS，還有格拉蘇蒂莫勒？如果你的回答為是，那這款來自我們熟知的德國製表重鎮——格拉蘇蒂的腕錶可能會對你的味口，就是格拉蘇蒂莫勒航海系列的Rasmus 2000。設計這款表的製表師生活在遠離海洋的薩克森州寒冷山區，對於這個事實我們還是暫時忽略吧（發條魚：哈哈哈哈哈哈）。另外，莫勒出售的很多腕錶系列名稱都是「Nautische Instrumente」，翻譯成英語就是「nautical instrument」（發條魚按：前者是德語，航海的意思） 在我看來，這款腕錶是莫勒眾多航海系列腕錶中賣相最好的一款。

Before discussing elements of the watch itself, it is important to point out some unique things that Muhle Glashutte does. Actually Muhle Glashutte isn t alone among smallGerman watch brands in that they don t merely use stock ETA or Sellita movements. Instead, they use these movements and build on them, adding a lot of their own, arguablyimproved parts. The best part is that they don t BS the buyer in dressing up the name of the movement. They could easily do that as there is a lot of their own features in manyof their movements, but instead they make it clear that inside the Rasmus 2000 is a base Sellita SW200 automatic movement, but that it includes some of their own features. Inthis instance the SW200 has three things that make it unique for Muhle Glashutte.

在討論這枚時計自身的設計元素之前，我需要點出一些格拉蘇蒂莫勒特別的地方。實際上格拉蘇蒂莫勒在德國小眾腕錶品牌中並不是孤立的，莫勒不僅僅只是使用ETA和SW機芯，他們還對機芯進行升級改造，加入了很多自己的性能優越的升級裝置。他們並沒有通過改變機芯的名稱，宣稱是自產機芯來欺騙消費者，其實他們這樣做是很容易的，因為他們使用的機芯含有大量自己的設計。莫勒明確指出手錶搭載的是SW200自動上鏈機芯，只不過自己對機芯進行了一些改造。在這種情況下，莫勒改造的SW200機芯有三個特點。

First, and most simply, is the unique Muhle Glashutte finishing. They claim that their own surface finishing techniques help reduce friction while increasing the longevity ofthe metal. Perhaps just a bit, but finishing the parts of a movement and then reassembling it is a big chore. So that does add value. Next is using a custom automatic rotor madeby Muhle Glashutte. The claim it offers optimal weight and weight distribution to move as effectively as possible. Last is the patented "woodpecker neck regulation." Ever heardof a watch with a swan neck regulation? Well Muhle Glashutte has a woodpecker neck. They aren t the same thing. With this comes an entirely custom balance cock over the balancewheel. The special system is designed to prevent shock from deviating the adjustment of the balance wheel, and thereby reducing the accuracy of the watch.

第一個，也是最簡單的，就是是莫勒專屬的打磨技巧，莫勒的機芯打磨技術有助於減少摩擦，同時增加金屬的使用壽命。也許只是一項小小的改進，但是每次打磨完一個機芯的部位然後重新組合，是一個很大的工程。可想而知，機芯的價值經過這道工序得到提升；第二個就是獨特的莫勒自動陀，自動陀提供了最佳的重量和重量分布，保證高效移動；最後一個就是獲得專利的「啄木鳥頸式微調」裝置你們一定知道天鵝頸微調裝置，而啄木鳥和天鵝頸是不一樣的，啄木鳥頸式微調」裝置是一個完全定製的擺輪平衡軸。該專用系統設計用於防止震動引起的平衡軸偏移，從而確保手錶精度。

I think it is pretty cool that Muhle Glashutte offers these special parts. It honestly means more to me at this price than if they tried to make their own movement. The idea is that they take the best mass produced Swiss watch movements available, and improve upon them even more. Further, if you get a Muhle Glashutte watch with a chronograph, they place their own special 3/4 plate on top of base Valjoux 7750 and 7753 movements which is said to improve upon those calibers as well.

個人覺得莫勒能夠做出這些改變是非常難得的一件事，在這個價位，能夠有如此精細的打磨確實是很有誠意。他們將最大眾的瑞士生產機芯改造成遠超於其價格之上的精細程度，如果你的手中有一枚莫勒的計時腕錶，就能看到他們將獨創的3/4夾板置於ETA7750和ETA7753的之上，能增加腕錶機芯的持久性。

Brands in Glashutte especially are very well known for regulating stock movements they purchase from other companies very well. Then again, the competition is fierce in Glashutte because many of the brands not only make their own movements, but make pretty kick-ass mechanical watch movements. Anyhow, the automatic SW200 movement in the watch has the time and date with a 38 hour power reserve.

格拉蘇蒂小鎮的手錶品牌以改造從其他公司購買的機芯而出名，而且競爭非常激烈，因為很多品牌不僅自產機芯，還能打造頂級機械手錶的機芯。總之，這款手錶中的SW200自動上鏈機芯有日期顯示功能和38小時動能儲存。

The Rasmus 2000 case is in steel, and given a lovely tool-like sandblasted finishing. At 44mm wide and 17.5mm thick, it isn t a small watch, but it certainly could be larger. The case back of the watch tapers in a bit which gives the illusion it isn t as thick. It makes good use of all that metal though. The case is highly anti-magnetic and has a 3.5mm thick domed and AR coated sapphire crystal. All that gives the watch... you guess it... 2000 meters of water resistance (200 bars). If you are clever you ll notice that the dials of these watches all say "300 ATM." Yea, that is a typo on these pre-production models. It should say "200 ATM" (which it does on the retail versions).

這款Rasmus 2000的錶殼由不鏽鋼打造，並採用獨特金屬拉絲打磨工藝。44mm的錶盤尺寸和17.5mm的厚度著實不算小錶盤，不過它完全可以更大。手錶背部錶殼設計呈錐形，給人一種並沒有那麼厚的視覺效果，很完美的利用了錶殼構造設計。錶殼材質高度防磁性的，並且具有3.5mm厚和夜光塗層的圓形藍寶石水晶。你能想像到嗎?這些特殊材質工藝能保證腕錶潛水2000m潛水功能。如果你夠細心，還能發現手錶錶盤上都標識有300 ATM。其實這是這些預生產的手錶上一個小小的列印錯誤，出售產品中你能看到標識的是200 ATM。

You gotta love the screw-down crown (with guards) located at 4 o clock and the unique rotating divers bezel. The insert with the numerals isn t just a simple ring, and the special shape is cool, and also offered in a few colors. The case is also the same as that used on the last Muhle Glashutte watch we looked at (also a diver) hands-on, the Seebataillon GMT. One element of the design that often causes confusion is the crown. On the crown is the image of a windmill. How does this relate to diving? Well it doesn t. "Muhle" however means "mill," and long ago many grain mills were powered by wind... hence the name "windmill." Further, "Muhle" is the name of the family who started the brand, so in a sense, it is their family sign.

你肯定會愛上這款手錶4點鐘位置的旋入式錶冠設計和獨特的單向旋轉表圈。數字排列與表圈之上並沒有形成一個簡單的圓形，而是特別的酷炫的多邊凸出，並用不同顏色進行點綴裝。這款腕錶的錶殼設計和上一次我們測評的一款腕錶是一樣的，同樣是一枚潛水錶——the Seebataillon GMT。容易造成混淆的一個設計元素就是錶冠。在錶冠上呈現的圖案是風車，這和潛水又有什麼聯繫？好吧，其實並沒有。Muhle的英文寫法就是mill（小編：中文意思是工廠），很久以前很多糧食廠是由風力推動的，風車的名字由此而來。莫勒其實是品牌創始人家族的名稱，所以在某種意義上，這個風車是他們家族的標誌。

For many, the best part of the Rasmus 2000 is the dial. Offered in three version, the metallic dials are sharp looking and easy to read. The hands and hour markers have a lot of lume, and are attractively designed as well. Each with sunburst polish, the dials come in black (M1-28-83-KB), blue (M1-28-82-KB), and orange/yellow (M1-28-87-MB). Something about that golden metallic yellow attracts me, but I have a feeling the blue or black models sell the most being a bit more conservative.

在很多人看來，這款腕錶最好看的部分就是錶盤，錶盤有三個不同版本，金屬錶盤看起來清晰易讀時，手錶指針和時標擁有超亮夜光塗層，設計得很有吸引力。每隻腕錶都經過拋光金屬拉絲太陽紋打磨，表演顏色有黑色（M1-28-83 KB），藍色（M1-28-82 KB）和橙色/金色（M1-28-87-MB）三種選擇。金色錶盤對於我來說更有吸引力一點，但可能相對比較保守的藍色和黑色錶盤會賣得更多。

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