做出爆款設計，設計師就真的開心了？

時尚 09-29

如果你已經擁有爆款，並且準備出手賺一筆差價的話，那這對你來說可能是個不錯的增加收入的途徑。可是，雖然你賺到了，但這似乎又給該品牌帶來了另一波難題。

你凡在《中國有嘻哈》穿了這件，再掀一波跟風搶購熱潮（圖片來源：iqiyi）

那個會讓你誤以為是《怪奇物語》官方 Merch 系列的巴黎品牌 ih nom uh nit 就面臨著這一現狀。前有亞洲時尚 ICON 權志龍以及流量明星吳亦凡的加持，後面也跟隨著一眾網紅、KOL 以及 Blogger 的上身，代購、炒賣的價格就像我爺爺血壓計上的數字一樣，一路飆升。與此同時， ih nom uh nit 的其它作品甚至成衣系列，卻面臨著被這些爆紅設計「喧賓奪主」的問題。

就這個問題…我們找到當事人 — ih nom uh nit 的設計師 Chaz Jordan，問了問他對這些炒賣衣服現象的看法之餘，也讓他親自介紹一下，真正的 ih nom uh nit 到底是什麼樣的。

Chaz Jordan

ih nom uh nit 創意總監

「當我為自己做出第一件《怪奇物語》單品時，並沒有想到日後會批量化生產」

2 Chainz 上身「小 11」款（圖片來源：Chaz Jordan）

我知道很多人通過《怪奇物語》的系列認識了 ih nom uh nit ，但可能對其背後的設計師不是很了解，能先介紹一下你自己嗎？

I am sure there are a lot of audience may notice ih nom uh nit through out the shirt of Stranger Things, but they still not familiar with you and the design ideas behind the brand, could you please introduce yourself a little bit, give our audience a general picture about who you are?

Chaz：好的，這的確引起了很多猜測…我是個創意總監，經歷了調研、實驗、甚至錯誤，才成功推出了現在的品牌。我今年28 歲，出生於芝加哥，後來居住在加州 Beverly Hills，目前在巴黎發展。

Chaz：Yes, this is for sure the case and cause for a lot of speculation…I am simply put a creative that became a creative director by research , trial / error and success. 28 , I am a Chicago native that resides in Beverly Hills California by way of Paris.

（怪奇物語系列）

所以…你很喜歡《怪奇物語》？

So…are you a fan of Stranger Things?

Chaz：當然，它是我設計出那個系列的靈感來源。當我為自己做出第一件《怪奇物語》單品時，並沒有想到日後會批量化生產。但此後的情況大家都知道了。

Chaz：Of course, this was the thought process behind this piece. I never had intent to produce for distribution when I made the initial piece for myself…however, we have all been witness to what followed.

Pop Up Series 的《毒梟》Pablo 印花，（圖片來源：ih nom uh nit）

這是一個 Pop Up Series ，對吧？

That』s a Pop Up series，Right?

Chaz：是的，那一系列開啟了我們的「Pop Up Series」，不過它現在已經獨立出來，最新設計也加入了美劇《毒梟》里的人物形象。

Chaz：Yes, it is the piece that started our 「Pop Up Series」 which has now taken on an identity of its own and now includes shows like Narcos…

ih nom uh nit Collection Ten 系列（圖片來源：ih nom uh nit）

（從定價、設計或工藝上看）Pop Up Series 和 ih nom uh nit 的 collection 好像是兩個不同的東西，是嗎？

Looking through the pricing, design and craft, Pop Up Series and ih nom uh nit seem like two totally different works, could you explain them briefly? How similar or different are they?

Chaz：準確地說，從開始做「Pop Up Series「的時候就擔心這個問題，我絕對不希望顧客會產生兩個系列混淆的錯覺。

儘管現在大多數人知道我們是因為《怪奇物語》的帽衫和 T-Shirt，但真正的粉絲也是知道我們的 collection 系列的。

Chaz：Precisely, this has been my intention since creating the Pop Up Series. I never wanted to blend the two to confuse our audiences.

While we are now known to the masses as a 『branded』 line with the sweatshirts and t shirts we are known by our true followers for our couture level work.

ih nom uh nit Collection Ten （圖片來源：ih nom uh nit）

我看現在的 ih nom uh nit collection 好像沒有季度之分了，這跟你以前的品牌 Au Courant 有關嗎？

It seems like ih nom uh nit have no concept of fashion seasonal release, and is there anything related with your previous brand Au Courant?

Chaz：Ha，又是一個有關季度的正確觀點。其實我個人不會過多在意傳統時裝的季度之分，直到最近基於銷售、產品展示等商業方面的考量，才開始變得比較在意這件事。

從這個層面上講，我們需要去遵循大環境的規則。和 Au Courant 的唯一關係就是我都是品牌的創意總監。

Chaz：Ha, also a correct assessment in regards to the seasons. I honestly do not care too much or pay attention to the traditional fashion seasons. Only recently I have been more so 『contractually obligated』 to do so for sales and showroom purposes.

But hey, at this level we have to play the game.The only affiliation with Au Courant is simply me as the creative director.

ih nom uh nit Collection Nine （圖片來源：ih nom uh nit）

ih nom uh nit collection 更注重在什麼樣的方面呢？ Luxury ？有沒有一些具體的例子？

What does ih nom uh nit collection focus on? Luxury? Do you have some example to explain it?

Chaz：對於 ih nom uh collection，我最根本的目標是做出一個純粹的、奢華的、始終如一併擁有豐富類別的產品線。

Luxury 是品牌很重視的一點，雖然這個詞現在有點被濫用，但幸運的是，這使得我們的顧客和粉絲能夠明確知道什麼場合、時間才最適合穿搭我們的產品，這一點對品牌的成功來說是很重要的。

不像大多數品牌，我們並不害怕去生產價值 40,000 歐的鱷魚皮夾克，11,000 歐的狐狸皮背包以及 17,000 歐的羊羔皮機車夾克等昂貴單品。

Chaz：My underlying focus and direction with this house is to produce a pure , luxurious and consistent products across multiple categories.

The term 『luxury』 is one we take serious. Today this term is loosely used and fortunately this allows our clients and followers to distinguish when they experience our products. This I believe has played a critical part in our success as well.

Unlike most, we are not afraid to produce 40,000 euro crocodile jackets , 11,000 euro fox backpacks, 17,000 euro astrakhan moto jackets etc.

除了成衣，你也同時在做傢具、珠寶和鞋子的設計？

Besides ready to wear collection, are you also working on the furniture, jewelry and shoe design?

Chaz：是的，但其他方面的設計不是很多，這也是我們自稱以及被認為是「時裝屋」的原因。

Yes, not to give too much away but we call ourselves and are called a 『house』 for a reason. Stand by…

ih nom uh nit Collection Ten （圖片來源：ih nom uh nit）

我看到最近發布的 Collection Ten ，實在太棒了！個人感覺有點街頭味道的同時，也很「巴黎」（Luxury 的感覺），這跟你要傳達的感覺一致嗎？

Personally, I am so obsessed with collection ten which is new released series recently. It has a little bit taste of streetwear, and mix with Parisian luxury feeling at the same time, is this what you want to convey based on this collection?

Chaz：是的，那是 Collection Ten 背後的理念。我希望將自己 2013 年的穿搭理念帶給大家，尤其是那些尚未完全踏足時尚領域，或者是像我一樣很喜歡那個階段的自己的年輕人。

那一年發生了很多事情：我剛搬到巴黎，愛上一個巴黎女人（之前從未想過），Kanye West 處於自己的巔峰階段，流行文化發展勢頭迅猛…所有這些情緒和觀感都是我想藉由這個系列去傳達的。

Chaz：Yes, this was the concept behind collection ten. I wanted to bring my wardrobe in 2013 to our audience for those who were too young, not yet into fashion or those who really loved that period as much as I did.

During this period a lot was happening. I had just moved to Paris, I was in a serious relationship with a 『Parisian Woman』 (never imagined that would happen) , Kanye was at his peak , pop culture was emerging strong. All of these emotions and feelings I wanted to convey.

「我其實希望所有的產品都是通過我們傾注的設計、獨特性、質量和奢侈感而吸引到顧客的」

2 Chainz （圖片來源：Chaz Jordan）

我看 Instagram 上有很多明星、 Fashion Blogger 、 Buyer 都穿起了這個（怪奇物語）系列，不單在中國，在日本、韓國甚至其他地方都存在著「炒賣」的情況，這你知道嗎？

I have seen many celebrities, fashion bloggers and buyers are wearing the collection of Stranger Things on instagram. It is just prevalent! Many people who are in China, Japan and South Korea, they are doing speculation business, they buy them and resell them with a higher price, how would you comment with this?

Chaz：提到炒賣這件事，的確是個比較棘手的問題。我們在巴黎和米蘭都有 Showroom ，並且負責管理分銷渠道，但因為轉賣和 B2B 市場的火爆，許多零售商都表示出了擔憂。我們十分關注市場輿論和反饋意見，而且已經開始密切關注它從而儘可能更好地把控產品供應問題。

我們的定價已經足夠高，因此將來可能不會再向上浮動。但是，經常鼓勵客戶購買他們看上的東西，如此以往我們可能會丟失自己產品的調性和風格，這在我看來是不合理的。

Chaz：When it comes to the resell market its tough. We have showrooms in Paris and Milan that handle the distribution channels which we are now condensing (and a lot of retailers are not happy about this) due to the reselling and B2B. We do care about our market opinion and controlling our supply and are now starting to more closely monitor these occurrences where we can.

Our prices are high enough as is so it does not make sense to increase further. However, we do encourage clients to purchase items they like when they see because I am very irrational when it comes to pulling the plug on a style / piece.

我不認為這是「壞事」，反是一種相對正常的市場規律。但是你有沒有擔心過， ih nom uh nit 背後的 Luxury 印象，會被這些現象所「混淆」呢？（或者說，有沒擔心過 ih nom uh nit 成為了人們眼裡的 hypebeast item ）

I don』t think speculation business is bad for a brand image, somehow this is a market discipline. but , have you ever concern about one day people will be confuse about the brand values through out the speculation ? Or ih nom uh nit』s product will become a kind of hypebeast item?

Chaz：就像上面提到的，我們已經開始採取一些控制產品供應和分銷渠道的措施來避免這個問題。但另一方面，對分銷和供應的限制自然會激發對熱門商品更多的需求。

我其實希望所有的產品都是因為我們傾注的設計、獨特性、質量和奢侈感而吸引到顧客。

Chaz：As mentioned above, we have taken steps on our end to control the supply of our products and their distribution to avoid this problem. On the flip side of this by limiting the distribution and supply you naturally create a stronger demand for those products.

I want all of products to be coveted and appreciated for the work , uniqueness , quality and luxury appeal we put into them.

所以對品牌的發展來講，你認為社交網路是個「危險」的東西嗎？

Do you think social media is a barrier or 「dangerous」 technology to the development of a brand?

Chaz：我最近從一個朋友那裡聽到對這個問題的好見解，他說現在很多品牌都是所謂的「instagram」品牌，只需要有好看的產品圖片以及社交網路就能火速傳播，這在智能手機普及的今天十分容易實現，人人都是攝影師和模特。

這也是為什麼我的個人 Instagram 賬號只關注兩個品牌（除了 ih nom uh nit）——Margirla 和 The Row。

當你有很好的產品並且能運用得當，社交媒體無疑是個強大的工具，它能幫你直接找到數以萬計的潛在客戶、出版物等。

不過千萬要謹慎使用。

Chaz：I recently heard the best comment that pertained to this question. One of my friends mentioned that brands today are 『instagram』 brands or brands that only look great in images or on social media which today is extremely easy to achieve with a mediocre photographer and street casting.

This is why I personally follow 2 brands on my Instagram outside of ih nom uh nit , Margiela & The Row.

Social media is also a powerful tool when used strategically with a great product as it opens your reach and audience to millions of potential clients , publications etc.

Use with caution…

在社交網路的入侵下，擁有二級市場價值的品牌變得越來越多，從奢華的 Hermès 限量版 Birkin ，到之前街頭上的各種元年稀有款 Air Jordan ，還有近些年侃爺掀起的 Yeezy 350、750 旋風以及街頭品牌 Supreme 的排隊大潮等等，炒賣圖利已經變成一股不容小覷的市場反應。社交媒體引發的「跟風」現象，直接體現在價簽數字、街頭撞衫率、甚至是某寶復刻上，浮躁的社會風氣逐漸消磨著個人審美的獨特性。

因為社交媒體的不斷介入，對一個品牌的創意總監來說，現在不單只是考慮設計…也就是常常說產品好不好看的問題。如何控制爆款在市場上的過度反應、流通渠道，避免「功高蓋主」的問題，可能才是更加棘手的難題吧。

本文作者: 0033

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