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2018年來美國,可以到這幾家飯館吃大餐

If you』re following the latest food forecasts, you』ll know that plant-based diets will be huge in 2018.

如果你是最新美食預測的追隨者,你會發現,植物性食品在2018年將大行其道。

Americans, however, will consume a record amount of meat in 2018: an average of 222.2 pounds of red meat and poultry per person, according to Bloomberg. Meat is cheap (especially because producers are raising more animals), and high-protein diets remain popular.

然而,彭博社稱,美國人在2018年的肉類消費量將創歷史新高:其紅肉和禽類肉品人均消費量將達到222.2磅(100多公斤)。肉類的價格十分便宜(主要原因在於牲畜飼養量的增加),而且高蛋白飲食依然十分受歡迎。

Feb 8, 2018

Feb 8, 2018

Also at a new high are the number of superior butcher shops that double as restaurants. Across the country, meat-oriented chefs are fronting places that cater to the demand for aged cuts, expertly made sausages, and cured meats. These spots offer pasture-raised, humanely treated beef, pork, lamb, and chicken, as well as less common choices such as goat, venison, and game birds.

帶有餐廳的高級肉食品商店的數量也將創歷史新高,呈現出翻倍增長的態勢。就全美而言,擅長烹飪肉類的大廚將充斥於店面,從而滿足人們對熟成肉、特色香腸和熏制肉品的需求。這些店面將提供牧場放養、人道屠宰的牛肉、豬肉、羊肉和雞肉,以及山羊肉、鹿肉和獵禽等並不常見的肉類。

Rib roasts in Connecticut, all-natural beef on the Upper West Side, a whole-animal butchery in Austin—these are among the places to go for meat in 2018.

康涅狄格州的烤肋排,上西區的純天然牛肉,奧斯丁提供牲畜各部位肉品的肉鋪,這些都是2018年食肉者們的最佳去處。

Grass & Bone, Mystic, Conn.

康涅狄格州米斯蒂克

You』d expect the coastal town of Mystic to be all about fish—and perhaps pizza. Yet last summer, Daniel Meiser and James Weiner transformed a Tim Horton』s doughnut outpost into a cafe with offerings such as the Grandpa Reuben (made with house-made pastrami) and bronzed rotisserie chicken with garlic mayo. The focal point of the space is a refrigerated case filled with cuts of meat dry-aged up to 90 days and sometimes more. 「We didn』t want to do a fake butcher program,」 Meiser says. 「We want people to come here and say, 『I want a 2-inch-thick aged rib-eye to make for dinner.』」

在人們的想像中,海濱城市米斯蒂克是以吃魚為主,可能還有比薩。然而去年夏天,丹尼爾·梅瑟和詹姆士·維勒將Tim Horton的甜甜圈街邊小店變成了一家餐館,提供 Grandpa Reuben(用自製的熏牛肉製作)和古銅色的大蒜醬烤雞。這一店面最引人注目的莫過於其冷藏箱,裡面裝有風乾時間長達90天(有時候更長)的熟成肉品。梅瑟說:「我們不希望成為一家名不副實的肉品店。我們希望人們來這後會說,『我想要一條2英寸厚的熟成肋眼肉來做晚餐。』」

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White Gold Butchers, New York City

紐約市

On Manhattan』s Upper West Side, this white-tiled space evokes an old-school butcher shop. There are dozens of all-natural, pasture-raised offerings including top sirloin, bone-in New York strip steaks, marrow bones, house-made hot dogs, and smoked kielbasa from butcher-owners Erika Nakamura, Jocelyn Guest, and April Bloomfield. Diners can add sausage, ham, bacon, pastrami, or all of them, to the breakfast egg sandwich. For dinner, there』s crispy pig head.

在曼哈頓上西區,這家用白磚裝飾的店面呈現出一股老派的肉店氣息。店裡擺放著數十種純天然、牧場放養的產品,包括頂級牛脊肉、帶骨紐約牛排、髓骨、自製熱狗以及肉店店主艾麗卡·納卡姆拉、喬斯林·格斯特和艾普利·布魯姆菲爾德製作的波蘭熏腸。用餐者可在早餐雞蛋三明治中添加香腸、火腿、熏肉、熏牛肉或所有肉品。在晚餐時段,店裡還會提供鬆脆的豬頭肉。

Publican Quality Meats, Chicago

芝加哥

Chicago』s legendary meatpacking district is the setting for this outpost of the popular pork and oysters restaurant, Publican. Headed by chef Paul Kahan, PQM includes a cafe that specializes in charcuterie: salumi, patés, terrines, confit, and rillettes. Tom』s Silver Medal sandwich is piled high with spicy capicola, lonza cotto, ham, provolone, and pickled peppers on a hoagie. (It』s Chicago.) The shop also sells bone-in cuts—rib-eye, porterhouse, strip—each dry-aged for an average of 60 days.

這家備受歡迎的豬肉和牡蠣餐廳Publican座落於芝加哥具有傳奇色彩的肉類加工區。PQM由大廚保羅·卡漢執掌,其中設有一個餐廳,專門提供熟食品:腌肉、砂鍋類、肉凍、鴨腿和熟肉醬。厚厚的Tom』s Silver Medal特大號三明治塞滿了義大利腌肉、豬後腿肉、火腿、波蘿伏洛乾酪和腌辣椒。(這裡是芝加哥。)肉店還銷售帶骨肉,有肋眼、腰肉和前腰脊,每一種肉的平均風乾熟成時長都達到了60天。

Gwen Butcher Shop and Restaurant, Los Angeles

洛杉磯

Chef Curtis Stone has created a premium destination for carnivores. There』s a wide selection of ingredients to cook in the wood-burning asador, such as short ribs, lamb shanks, and dry-aged short loin. The priciest cuts are the Australian Blackmore Wagyu; the 42-ounce bone-in rib-eye goes for $390. 「Blackmore Wagyu is probably the best beef raised outside Japan, and only a handful of other butcher shops carry it,」 says butcher Andrew Sutton.

大廚賽提斯·斯通為肉食愛好者提供了一個絕佳的去處。這家木柴烤肉店提供大量的食材供食客們選擇,例如短肋排、羊小腿和風乾熟成前腰肉。最貴的肉品莫過於澳大利亞Blackmore和牛:42盎司的帶骨肋眼肉價格高達390美元。店主安德魯·薩頓說:「Blackmore和牛可能是在日本海外飼養的品質最好的牛肉,只有少數肉店有售。」

Belcampo, California

加州

Belcampo founder Anya Fernald, a leader in the humanely raised animal movement, raises her 2,500 cows in Northern California. She then sources them to Belcampo locations around the state, from downtown Los Angeles to Palo Alto. The hybrid butcher shop carries beef alongside free-range poultry and pork. The restaurants specialize in burgers, including 100-day dry-aged patties. The newest location, opening in March, will be Belcampo Oakland, where the bar will feature the BBQ Manhattan, with barbecue bitters and beef jerky garnish. For inspired do-it-yourselfers, Belcampo』s meat camp is a two-day experience that teaches the craft of butchery and beef cooking near the base of Mt. Shasta.

Belcampo創始人安雅·費納爾德是牲畜人道飼養運動的領袖,在北加州飼養了2500頭牛。她將其販賣給Belcampo在全美各地的分店,從洛杉磯市中心一直到帕拉奧托。這家混合肉店除了出售牛肉之外還販賣自由放養的雞肉和豬肉。餐館主營漢堡包,包括100天風乾熟成的漢堡包。該餐館將於3月在奧克蘭開設新分店,其餐廳將主打曼哈頓燒烤,並提供燒烤比特酒和牛肉乾配菜。對於那些充滿創意的自助者來說,為期兩天的Belcampo肉品營(在沙斯塔山腳附近舉行)將為其介紹屠宰和牛肉烹飪技巧。

Marin Sun Farms, Point Reyes Station, Calif.

加州雷耶斯角車站Marin Sun農場

This farm off the coast in Marin County is known for its primo ingredients and outstanding selection of grass-fed, locally raised pork, chicken, lamb, goat, and beef. The Point Reyes restaurant offers a variety of steak frites (filet mignon, goat loin, and pork loin chop) and terrific burgers (beef, lamb, or goat). There』s also a list of local wines and beers. Marin Sun Farms has a butcher shop in Oakland, too.

這個位於馬林郡的近海農場因其一流的食材以及精選的當地草飼豬、雞、羔羊、山羊和牛而聞名。Point Reyes餐館提供各種各樣的肋排配油炸土豆條(菲力牛排、羊腰肉和豬腰排)以及異常美味的漢堡包(牛肉、羔羊肉或山羊肉),同時還有多種當地紅酒和啤酒可供選擇。Marin Sun農場在奧克蘭也設有一家肉店。

Dai Due, Austin

奧斯丁

Founder Jesse Griffiths is a hero in the world of butchery. Since he opened Dai Due in 2006, Griffiths has been butchering whole animals from ranches around Texas. At the front of the restaurant is a butcher case that might include smoked venison sausages, pork loin, and kielbasa. The grocery section carries salsa, olive oil, and other locally made products. The restaurant has an affinity for game with dishes such as wild boar burgers, but there』s also grilled giant beef rib with chile honey. Another unlikely specialty is tallow coffee, made with rendered beef fat.

創始人傑西·格里菲斯是肉店界的英雄人物。自2006年開設Dai Due以來,格里菲斯一直在銷售來自於德州農場的動物各部位肉品。餐館前的肉品櫃里會不時地陳列煙熏鹿肉腸、豬腰肉和波蘭熏腸。餐館裡的百貨攤位擺放著莎莎醬、橄欖油和其他當地製作的產品。餐館還提供獵殺的野味,例如野豬肉漢堡,同時也提供用智利蜂蜜烤制的大片牛排。另一個難得一見的特色是用提煉的牛油脂肪所做的牛脂咖啡。

Salt & Time, Austin

奧斯丁Salt & Time

Austin is lucky enough to have two destination butcher shops where you can also eat exceedingly well. The tag line for this spot is 「Good things come to those who add salt and wait.」 Every place wants to evoke traditional butcher shops: Salt & Time』s meat counter truly feels as if it』s decades-old, with rich red cuts of local meat, such as chuck roast, brisket, and flat iron steaks, and a vast selection of sausages, including fresh chorizo, bratwurst, and lamb merguez. At the rustic wooden tables, you can snack on a butcher』s salad stocked with deli meats, a meatloaf sandwich, or a bologna club sandwich.

奧斯丁是一個幸運之城,它擁有兩家必去的肉品店,足以讓人們大快朵頤。這家店有一個響亮的口號:「那些加鹽並耐心等待的人將盡享美味。」每一個餐館都希望喚起人們對傳統熟食店的記憶:Salt & Time的肉品櫃給人一種飽經滄桑的感覺,裡面陳列著種類豐富的當地產紅肉,例如肩肉、胸肉和牛肩牛排,以及大量精選的香腸,包括新鮮的口利左香腸、德式碎肉香腸和羊肉腸。在粗糙的木桌上,你可以品嘗肉店的熟肉沙拉,肉餅三明治或大紅腸總會三明治。

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