縱貫美洲大陸，單車帳篷的旅行-90

最新 04-14

11/4 Chaputepec--Juchitan(de Zaragoza) 58 km

Please read the English version in the second half of this article

墨西哥南部的地形為低陷區，因此有著名的落山風，這留待之後介紹。這裡是中美洲地狹的北端，而距離太平洋僅約30公里直線距離的Juchitan，是今年9月Chiapas地震受創最嚴重的地區之一。

在事前我不斷考慮是否應該駐留此地，畢竟，我不想在大家忙亂之際，站在瓦礫堆上，告訴大家：看，我來過這裡。我在Chaputepec打聽一番，雖然一大半有聽沒懂，但是似乎多數居民的生活已經逐漸回覆正常。

我必須待在Juchitan的原因主要為氣候因素，否則一天不會只騎58公里。繞過Juchitan的主要公路看來所有建築物一片正常，但是步入市區，本來以為的局部災情，並非如此。

這是Oaxaca州的重要城市，Google地圖顯示城鎮中心有超過一打的旅館。我在滿街的瓦礫堆中尋找存活的旅店，發現別說建築物本身，多數的旅店連招牌都不見蹤影。我找到一間外觀看似平常的旅館，但是並未營業。最後我回到主要公路，找到一間也許是這個城市僅存的住宿，也是我看過最繁忙的旅館，四星級，星星數目在墨西哥似乎沒有太多意義，也不一定和價格呈正比。

市區幾乎沒有完整的磚瓦建築物，而歷史悠久的行政中心雖然茍延殘喘，但是外觀已受嚴重破壞。但是在城市中心，週六市集仍生氣蓬勃，我打聽一下，了解許多店面損壞的商家選擇在這裡搭起臨時棚架繼續生意。街上的三輪摩托計程車(我目前只在Oaxaca州看到這些車輛)取代其他地區的廂型計程車，努力的搶客與東鑽西竄，的確，似乎居民的生活已經逐漸回覆正常。

在行政中心旁的完全被摧毀的建築物的瓦礫堆上，本來有象徵墨西哥團結一心的國旗飄揚，但是現在已被移除。即使如此，墨西哥人的團結在很多地方顯現，不只是暫時性的象徵物。

The southeastern lowland of Mexico, where isthmus of Tehuantepec locates, is notorious for the chinooks(the fierce wind comes down from the mountains) which is the main reason for me to cycle only 58 km on the day. Aside from that, city of Juchitan, about 30 km from the Pacific, is one of the most damaged area in Chiapas earthquake in 7, September this year.

I don"t want to stand on the rubble and tell everyone on the fb that」look, I am here」 when everyone is still busy at reconstruction. So I asked around in Chaputepec, and I got the positive answer(although I can only understand a little of the Spanish conversation) that most resident in the city is back on track. And the chinooks made my stop at the city was a must.

The main building on the highway outskirting this city looked fine. But stepped into the center, where I tried to find out a survival hotel. (Juchitan is an important city of Oaxaca and Google maps indicate there are at least a dozen of hotels in the center.) I soon realized that not mention to the building of the hotels,even the signs didn"t exist. I asked a hotel in a good shape in the appearance if the owner was still running the business. He wasn"t.

From the center that dominated by debris, I went back to the highway and found a four stars hotel which is open. This is the busiest hotels I have ever seen. And it seems that the stars of a hotel in Mexico don"t necessary mean something or proportion to its price.

But the weekend market was still aminated. And I realized that lots of people whose store were damaged ran their small business here under the temporary scaffold. The 3-wheeled motorbikes, which I only found in Oaxaca state on my journey of Mexico, substitute the van bus, drive rampantly on the street. It appeared to me that the most lives of the city is at least try the best to be back to normal.

The historic municipal palace suffered notable destroyed. The debris aside was placed a national flag on top, which fully expressed the patriotism of Mexican but had been removed. But I found many situations where locals to express their unity, not only the temporary symbol.