Redentore 救主節

威尼斯紀事 第001期

水城日常001 Part 2/2

▼

That Saturday night Venetians eat outside, preferably on water. On improvised tables made of wooden boards covered with table clothes and placed on boats or along the quay, the traditional bean andpasta soup (pasta fagioli) will surely be served. Who knows why this modest dish is omnipresent on practically all festive menus here?There will be other Venetian specialties like bigoli in salsa, thick spaghetti in a brown sauce of stewed onions andanchovies, or duck ragout made of the lesser meat of the same duck that will be later eaten roasted as a main course. For starters, most probably sarde in saor, fried sardines marinated with onions and raisins...Wonderful evening, modest ingredients and strong tastes so favored in the Venetian cuisine! There is a chance for atouch of color if pepperonata of yellow and red peppers is served on the side along with stewed chanterelle mushrooms with parsley.

那周六晚，威尼斯人會外出就餐，最好還是在水上。在船上或沿岸臨時布置的餐桌上，傳統的四季豆意麵必不可少。誰知道這種質樸的菜肴為什麼在這裡的節日菜單上從不缺席？其他威尼斯特色菜還有洋蔥燉沙丁魚醬汁粗面，或是蔬菜燉碎鴨及作為主菜的烤鴨。前菜最常見的則是滷味沙丁魚，即用洋蔥和葡萄乾腌制過的沙丁魚乾。美妙的夜晚、質樸的食材和香濃的口味都是威尼斯美食的一部分，而香菜燉雞油菇配上紅黃小彩椒更是會為此增色。

There will be plenty of wine – Venetians are easy and celebrate with the same wines they drink every day: the simplest wines from the Veneto region vineyards bought in small shops all over town and poured directly from the barrel into empty plastic mineral water bottles; red cabernet franc, merlot or slightly fizzy semi-dry raboso or rabosello, if white, then sparkling prosecco is a must and flat tai (which used to be called tocai) or pinot grigio which in Venice is closer to a rosé and never too dry.It is a long evening, generous dinner and wine substitutes water but nobody hurries back home before they eat a slice of watermelon big enough to serve an extended family.

當然，葡萄酒是少不了的，隨意的威尼斯人會拿日常喝的酒來慶祝。最簡單的有威尼斯地區葡萄園自產的酒，全城各處的小店裡都能買到，直接從酒桶倒進空礦泉水瓶就行。紅酒可以是品麗珠、美樂，或是有點氣泡的拉波索或拉波瑟羅半干葡萄酒。白葡萄酒的話，普羅塞克起泡酒是必須的，還有不起泡的泰酒（以前稱為tocai）或是在威尼斯口感不幹更像桃紅酒的灰皮諾。有盛宴和美酒的漫長夜裡，在吃完夠全家人吃的大西瓜前，沒人會著急回家。

Fireworks can be seen just as well from the land, though our hair won』t get sparkled with ashes. The higher, the better: from balconies, rooftops, and terraces of smaller houses or palaces and hotelson the Grand Canal. Venice, again, is democratic and the illuminated sky can be seen from the most remote places in the perimeter of the town.That is certainly one of the reasons why Venetians build and tend rooftop altanas: to see the sky and water too, as did Venetian merchants for ages. From their balconies, they watchedtheir ships bringing goods from overseas. Palazzo Venier dei Leoni – once Peggy Guggenheim"s house and now a museum named after her – has only one floor and was never completed because the neighbors across the Canal, the Corner family did not want their view blocked. Whoever has a good balcony or an altana will not be alone on the night of the Redentore.

島上其他地方也能觀看煙火，頭髮還不會沾上灰。當然，越高越好，無論是在陽台、屋頂、露台還是在小宅、宮殿、酒店。威尼斯很公平，即使身處最遠的小角落，也能欣賞煙花照亮的夜空。這是為什麼威尼斯人會在屋頂上搭看台的原因之一：看天，看水，看歲月流逝。千百年來，人們都在陽台上注視著從海外滿載而歸的威尼斯商船。現為古根漢美術館的維尼爾獅子宮，以前是佩姬·古根漢的住所，但它只有一層樓高，而且從未建完，就是因為住河對面的柯內爾家族不想視野受阻。在救主節之夜，有陽台或看台的人，在自己的一方天地里都不會孤獨。

（除有特別說明，以上照片來自網路）

編譯：Francesca Hu, Annie Chen, cyq

▼

作者簡介：

Ewa Gorniak Morgan: 《威尼斯縱橫》撰稿人，旅居威尼斯的波蘭作家和譯者，著有《威尼斯吾愛》

VP Mag contributor, Polish writer and translator in Venice,author ofVenice My Love.

▼

喜歡這篇文章嗎？立刻分享出去讓更多人知道吧！