丹寧課堂 | 什麼是紅邊布牛仔？

原標題：丹寧課堂 | 什麼是紅邊布牛仔？

紅邊牛仔布的起源

Selvedge denim is woven using old-fashioned denim-weaving techniques; most authentically woven on old looms. See finished selvedge jeans. Selvedge looms were popular in denim weaving until the mid-to-late 1900』s. US denim mills began modernizing their machinery to speed production as demand for denim grew worldwide. For these mills, that were focused more and more on increasing output, the use of old selvedge looms became unwanted, making the looms obsolete due to their slower and less consistent production.

紅邊牛仔布是採用古老的牛仔布織造技術，在傳統織機上織造完成。一直到1900年代中後期，有梭織布機在牛仔布生產中都很受歡迎。但隨著牛仔布的需求在全球範圍內增長，美國牛仔布工廠開始對機械進行現代化改造以加速生產。對於這些越來越多地關注增加產量的工廠而言，傳統有梭織機由於生產效率低且不太穩定而慢慢遭到淘汰。

紅邊牛仔布卷裝。所有紅邊牛仔布均採用原始的工藝製造。一旦重洗，就不再是原汁原味了。

紅邊牛仔布比毛邊布更窄

However, today, selvedge denim has become more desirable than non-selvedge for two reasons: the nuance of the denim weaving technique itself and the commitment to quality from the mills producing selvedge denim. Japanese mills are the unquestionable leaders in selvedge denim production, nowadays.

然而，現在，紅邊牛仔布比寬幅牛仔布更受歡迎。究其原因有二點：牛仔布織造技術本身的細微差別以及紅邊牛仔布工廠對質量的承諾。如今，日本企業是紅邊牛仔布生產中無可爭議的領導者。

Selvedge tends to have a tighter, denser weave than non-selvedge. The higher density gives the denim a sturdier hand. The use of the older selvedge loom technology also creates variations on the denim surface (due to inconsistencies in the weaving process) compared to denim woven on modern looms. These variations make the denim visually unique and highly desirable.

顯而易見，鎖邊布比非鎖邊更緊密，更密集。更高的密度使牛仔布更堅固。與現代織機上生產的牛仔布相比，使用傳統有梭織機，會在牛仔布表面上產生變化，這些變化使牛仔布在視覺上顯得非常獨特。

Denim mills that have committed to the production of selvedge denim understand and value the nuance and history of denim. With their advanced knowledge comes a desire, as well as a self-imposed responsibility to make a superior product. For these mills, yarn quality, dyeing techniques, quality control, design andinnovation take heightened priority as compared to mills focused on commodity, high-volume production. The result is an undeniable increase of the overall quality of selvedge.

專註於生產紅邊布的工廠，與專註於商品化、大批量生產的工廠相比，前者對紗線質量，染色技術，質量控制，設計和創新等會給予更高的重視，所以一般來說紅邊布的品質及成本都是上乘的。

Selvedge or Selvage?

鎖邊或者非鎖邊？

The word selvedge comes from "self-edge". The edge of the denim has a clean finish, since it will not unravel, the edge of the fabric is used as the garment』s outseam. Therefore, looking at the inside of the outseam is an easy way to identify a pair of jeans made from selvedge denim.

包邊這個詞來自「自我鎖邊」。紅邊牛仔布的邊緣有一個完整的鎖邊，不會散開，織物的邊緣被用作服裝的外縫。因此，看牛仔褲的外側縫，是一種簡單的方法來識別一條牛仔褲是否由紅邊牛仔布製作而成。

There are variant spellings of the term: selvedge or selvage. Both are grammatically correct. The brand prefers using the former in its product titles and deion, because of its direct reference to the root word "edge".

該術語有不同的拼寫：selvedge或selvage。兩者都是語法正確的。但品牌更傾向於在產品名稱和描述中使用前者，因為它直接引用了詞根「邊緣」。

The denim edge is used in the jean construction. The outseam of the jean is the self-edge of the denim fabric – and is the identifier of selvedge denim.

牛仔布布邊可直接用於牛仔褲。牛仔褲的外縫是紅邊牛仔面料的布邊——並且是紅邊牛仔布的標識。

As the abovephotograph reveals, the selvedge denim has the white edge with blue thread. This is the "self-edge" of the denim. A non-selvedge jean will need a merrow stitch (or cleaning stitch) on this edge to keep the denim from unraveling.

如上圖所示，紅邊牛仔布的白色邊緣帶藍色線。這是牛仔布的「自我鎖邊」。非包邊牛仔布需要在這條邊緣上設置一條鎖邊線，以防止牛仔布鬆散。

The outside edge of the jean, called the outseam, is sewn using the outside edge of the fabric. This incorporates the self-edge into the jean construction.

牛仔褲的外側邊縫，稱為外縫，使用面料的紅邊縫製。這是把布邊融入牛仔褲結構中。

如何製作紅邊牛仔褲

The above picture shows how to place a jean pattern onto selvedge denim before cutting. This clarifies the use of "self-edge". Selvedge is narrower than non-selvedge. Fully using the "self-edges" minimizes fabric waste(As seen in the first photograph of this article).

上圖顯示了如何在裁剪前將紙樣放置在紅邊牛仔布上。這澄清了「紅邊布」的使用比非織邊更浪費的說法。充分利用「布邊」可最大限度地減少織物浪費。

Non-selvedge jeans require a cleaning stitch to keep the outseam from unraveling.

非紅邊牛仔褲的裁片需要鎖邊，以防止外縫散開。

Selvedge denim is not the same as raw denim. Raw denim has never been washed. Therefore, all denim, selvedge or non-selvedge, is raw when it comes out of the loom. Washed denim is no longer raw.

紅邊牛仔布與原味牛仔布不同。原味牛仔布從未洗過。因此，所有牛仔布，包邊或非包邊，織出來時都是原味的。而水洗牛仔布不再有原味。

There may be many questions concerning the differences between selvedge and non-selvedge denim. One is not superior to the other in terms of quality and longevity. Moreover, the cotton and the dyeing processes used for selvedge are not necessarily different than those used for non-selvedge. In the question of comfort, non-selvedge may offer somewhat more flexibility in the fabric. However, selvedge is undeniably more desirable and attractive, and the Todd Shelton brand recommends highly and truly the purchase of selvedge jeans.

關於紅邊和非紅邊牛仔布之間的差異可能有很多。在質量和壽命方面，一個並不優於另一個。此外，用於織邊的棉和染色工藝不一定與用於非織邊的工藝不同。在舒適性問題上，非紅邊可以在織物上提供更多的靈活性。然而，無可否認，紅邊更具吸引力，Todd Shelton品牌就真誠地建議購買紅邊牛仔褲。

（來源：廣州市紅邊布紡織有限公司）

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