巴西女議員：我穿深V怎麼了！

趣味 03-12

在過去很長的一段歷史中，女性的著裝常常是被男性主宰和加以限制的。因此，為了追求著裝上的舒適，女性常常為之付出了巨大的艱辛與努力。

BBC最近總結了近年來全世界範圍發生的，女性在服裝和配飾上的革命。它們顛覆了傳統意義上對女性的服飾之美的定義。

衣櫥革命：女性穿戴的五項變化 (via BBC)

韓國的眼鏡

對美瞳當道，五彩睫毛盛行的中國女孩來說，她們很難想到，鄰國的韓國女生已經開始摒棄假睫毛和隱形眼鏡了。如今，更時髦的裝扮是戴上一副或前衛、或知性、或優雅、抑或是呆萌的框架眼鏡。

而引領這一時尚的是韓國一位電視新聞女主播任鉉珠(Yim Hyun-ju)。

(Via MBC News/YouTube/Business Insider)

When South Korean news anchor Yim Hyun-ju got into work on 12 April 2018, she ditched her false eyelashes and contact lenses for glasses, and social media exploded.

2018年4月12日那天，韓國新聞主播任鉉珠決定拋棄假睫毛和隱形眼鏡，戴上她的框架眼鏡上了電視直播，她的行為引爆了社交媒體。

The Wardrobe of Rebellion (via BBC)

在韓國，男性新聞主播常常可以帶著眼鏡出鏡。而女性主播常常要遵循帶妝、不佩戴框架眼鏡的常規審美路線。

不過，這位每天凌晨2:40分起床，6點準時出現在直播間播報新聞的小姐姐，在經受了眼睛乾澀到需要大量使用眼藥水來緩解乾眼癥狀的困境後，終於鼓起勇氣，卸下妝容，以最自然舒適的狀態投入到工作中，而不再追求別人眼中所謂的「美」。

"I"d grown up with Korea"s so called "presenter style" - immaculate hair and make-up, tightly fitting formal suits and high heels," Ms Yim, 35, tells the BBC.

「我從小到大都被灌輸韓國的這種所謂的『主持人風格』——完美的髮型和妝容，緊身修身的正式西服和高跟鞋，」35歲的任鉉珠告訴BBC。

"You have no choice but to play the part of the "beauty", but I always felt stressed."

「你別無選擇，不得不扮演『美』的角色，但我總感到很有壓力。」

The Wardrobe of Rebellion (via BBC)

不過，她的決定起先受到了來自同行的反對。

On the day, she sensed disapproval from some members of the newsroom. But after her first interview with the press, many commentators applauded her choice, and she decided to persist.

那天，她感覺到了來自編輯部同事的反對。但當她首次接受媒體採訪後，許多評論者稱讚了她的決定，她決定堅持下去。

What Ms Yim didn"t predict was how her story might still resonate with women all over the world a year on.

任當時沒有想到，她的舉動在一年後還依舊能引起世界各地女性的共鳴。

"Thanks for breaking the invisible taboo - I was motivated by you and finally have the courage to wear glasses after many years," one woman recently posted on Ms Yim"s social media account.

「感謝你打破了這個無形的禁忌——我受到你的鼓舞，在這麼多年後最終有了戴框架眼鏡的勇氣，」一位女性最近在任鉉珠的社交媒體賬號上留言。

Even South Korean airline Jeju has followed suit, lifting its ban on glasses for its female stewards.

甚至韓國的濟州航空也效仿了這個做法，取消了他們禁止女性乘務員佩戴框架眼鏡的禁令。

An entire movement called "escape the corset" has caught on in South Korea, with women shaving their hair and going without make-up to challenge received beauty ideals.

一項被稱作「逃離緊身胸衣」的運動也在韓國流行起來，女性剃頭素顏，挑戰傳統的美的理念。

"When I dropped the pressure of having to be "beautiful", I discovered who I really am," says Ms Yim.

「當我放下必須要『美』的壓力後，我發現了真正的自我，」任說。

The Wardrobe of Rebellion (via BBC)

(Via BBC)

無獨有偶，前不久，英國的維珍航空也取消了女性乘務人員工作時必須化妝穿裙裝的規定。過去該公司規定空姐至少要塗口紅、抹腮紅、刷睫毛膏。

(Via BBC)

Virgin Atlantic spokesman Mark Anderson said: "Not only do the new guidelines offer an increased level of comfort, they also provide our team with more choice on how they want to express themselves at work."

維珍航空發言人Mark Anderson表示：「新規定不單讓我們的團隊可以更舒適，也提供了更多選擇，讓員工可以在工作中表達自己。」

British Airways dropped its no-trouser rule for women in 2016, although it still requires female crew to wear make-up.

英國航空在2016年解除了對女性員工不得穿褲裝的規定，不過他們仍然要求女性乘務員化妝。

Virgin Atlantic removes cabin crew make-up rule (via BBC)

巴西的連體衣

(via BBC)

今年43歲的安娜·保拉·達席爾瓦(Ana Paula da Silva)，是巴西南部聖卡塔琳娜州新當選的議員。今年2月1日，她在議會宣誓就職。然而，她在就職儀式上的著裝，一件紅色的深V連體衣，在巴西引起軒然大波。

"I tried on hundreds of clothes. Nothing worked. Until I found the red pantsuit," she tells the BBC.

"我試穿了數百件衣服，但沒有稱心的。直到我發現了那件紅色的連體衣，"她告訴BBC。

The photos of Ana Paula"s speech that day went viral, but not because of its contents. She got home that night to find an avalanche of messages on social media.

安娜·保拉演講當天的照片在網上瘋傳，但不是因為她演講的內容。那天晚間回到家後，她發現自己社交媒體賬號遭到網友留言的狂轟濫炸。

The Wardrobe of Rebellion (via BBC)

這位議員從未想到會有這樣的反應。

"I keep looking at this picture and thinking: "What is wrong with my clothes?" I don"t think it was inappropriate because my clothes are in accordance with the protocol."

「我一直盯著照片想：『我穿的這件衣服怎麼了？』我不認為它有什不合適的，因為我的衣服符合規定。」

The protocol of Brazil"s parliament states that women should not wear skirts or dresses shorter than above the knee and that men should never wear shorts. But the rules say nothing about cleavage.

巴西的議會規定，女性不應穿短裙或者膝蓋以上的裙子，而男性永遠不該穿短褲。但是規定中沒有涉及女性的乳溝。

「I spent my whole life holding myself back, doing things I didn"t want to do because that was what society expected from me. I spent so many years wearing clothes I didn"t like because they were what my husband approved of. But after my divorce, I realised it was time to be myself,」 she says.

「我一輩子都在壓抑自己，做一些我不想做的事，因為那些事是社會希望我做的。我這麼多年來穿著我不喜歡的衣服，因為它們是我丈夫認可的。但在我離婚後，我意識到是時候做我回自己了，」她說。

"If it was a man with his shirt unbuttoned for such a ceremony, nothing like this would have happened. Maybe a few comments saying he should have worn better clothes. But nobody would make personal judgments, or say he is a hustler, or doubt his character.

「假如是個男性在這樣的儀式上沒有扣好襯衣的扣子，那就不會發生我所遇到的情況。可能會有些評論說他應該把衣服穿穿好。但不會人身攻擊，或者說他是一個男妓，或者懷疑他的品性。」

"People never admit they are sexist, but this episode shows the sexism that is still hidden in society."

「人們永遠都不承認他們有性別歧視，但這次事件表明性別歧視仍隱藏在這個社會中。」

The Wardrobe of Rebellion (via BBC)

蘇丹女性的褲裝

2018年10月，蘇丹女歌手莫娜·瑪吉·薩利姆(Mona Magdi Salim)被蘇丹公共秩序警察逮捕，原因是人們在社交媒體上分享了她在喀土穆一場音樂會上穿褲子演唱的照片。

Ms Salim would have likely been sentenced to "not more than 40 lashes, a fine, or both", according to Sudanese law. But the court suspended her case.

根據蘇丹法律，薩利姆可能受到不超過40下鞭刑，或罰款，或兩者兼而有之。不過法庭擱置了她的案子。

People have also fallen foul of the law for not wearing a hijab, or for having a particular hair style, or for wearing make-up.

蘇丹女性還可能因為沒有戴頭巾、梳某種髮型、或化了妝而犯法。

But critics have described the law as particularly oppressive towards women.

批評者認為這項法律是對女性的嚴重壓迫。

Despite existing for 28 years, the law does not specifically define what indecent dressing is, leaving its interpretation to the judgement of the public order police and prosecutors.

儘管已經存在了28年，這項法律並沒有特別定義什麼樣的服飾屬於衣著不檢、有傷風化，而將它的解釋權交給了公眾秩序警察和檢察官。

The Wardrobe of Rebellion (via BBC)

蘇丹政府在該國北部地區實施保守的伊斯蘭法。根據《公共風化法》，任何行為或衣著若妨害風化，都將被處以鞭刑或罰款。在喀土穆，有專門的「公共秩序」警察執行這一法律。

蘇丹女子穿長褲被判有罪（via新京報）

蘇丹的記者和人權活動家們努力了很多年，希望引起人們對這項法律的關注。但直到2009年，記者兼前聯合國僱員盧布娜·海珊(Lubna Ahmed Hussein)由於穿長褲而在喀土穆的一間咖啡廳里遭到逮捕，才引起了全球的關注。

海珊舉著一張標語上面寫道：「知道你的權利，這樣你就不被壓迫」(via BBC)

For her court hearing, Ms Hussein chose to wear the same clothes she was arrested in.

在法庭聽證會上，海珊選擇穿著她被捕時的服裝出庭。

「Unfortunately before my case many women who were victims were silent because society itself would not stand in solidarity with them,」 Ms Hussein tells the BBC.

「不幸的是，在我的案件發生之前，很多受害女性保持沉默，以為整個社會不會站在她們一邊，」海珊告訴BBC。

「After my case, because international media carried the story, I had the support of women and human rights defenders to [help people realise] that the women who had been arrested under the law were not actually criminals but victims.」

「我的案件發生後，因為國際媒體都報道了我的故事，我得到了女性的支持和人權家的支持，幫助人們理解那些因為這項法律遭到逮捕的女性不是罪犯而是受害者。」

The Wardrobe of Rebellion (via BBC)

突尼西亞女學生的制服

(Via BBC)

在突尼西亞，學校的學生行為準則有一條規定，女生必須在她們的衣服外面，套一件寬鬆的海軍藍制服。在小學裡，女生和男生都被要求穿這種制服，但在高中，只有女生必須穿。學校的監管者認為女孩的身體會讓異性分心，包括男性教師。

It wasn"t about fashion. It wasn"t about expression. It wasn"t even that the smock was uncomfortable.

突尼西亞的女學生抵制這種學生制服並不是為了時尚、也不是為了表達自我。甚至不是因為穿著這種制服不舒服。

"It was that we were required to wear it but boys weren"t," Siwar Tebourbi, now 20, tells the BBC.

「只是因為女生被要求穿，而對男生卻沒有要求，」現年20歲的Siwar Tebourbi告訴BBC。

"In our final year of high school some of us stopped wearing it," Ms Tebourbi says.

「在高中的最後一年，我們中的一些人不再穿它了，」Tebourbi說。

One day, a few weeks after Ms Tebourbi and her friends had dropped the smock, a supervisor warned the schoolgirl that she was at risk of expulsion. She and her friends mobilised.

Tebourbi和她的朋友不再穿著這種制服後，過了幾星期，有一天，一個管理者警告這個女生，她有被開除的風險。於是，她和她的朋友發起了一場運動。

Around 70 girls and boys of Pioneer High School came to school the next day - 30 November 2017 - wearing white T-shirts with the words "No Discrimination" on them.

第二天，2017年11月30日，先鋒高中的大約70名女生和男生來到學校，穿著白色T恤衫，上面印有「禁止歧視」的標語。

They called their campaign "Manish Lab-setha" - "I won"t wear it."

他們把他們的運動稱為「我不穿。」

The Wardrobe of Rebellion (via BBC)

他們收到了來自世界各地的郵件。印度、美國、法國的女性都和他們取得聯繫，鼓勵他們。其他學校的女生也不再穿這種制服。

「我不穿」運動引起了全球媒體的關注，但是學校方面卻沒有作出回應。

丹麥的面罩

一些伊斯蘭國家，比如伊朗、沙烏地阿拉伯，女性必須在公共場合用頭巾遮蓋她們的面部。有好幾個歐洲國家卻禁止人們在公共場所遮蓋他們的臉部。

居住在丹麥的Sarah Ali就是這麼一位堅持在公共場合戴著面罩的穆斯林女性。

"There are only 30-50 women in Denmark who wear the niqab," she tells the BBC. "Most of us are very active in local communities. Now they want to punish us for basically dressing."

「在丹麥，只有30到50名女性戴面罩，」她告訴BBC。「我們大多數人在當地的社區非常活躍。現在他們想要因為我們的穿著而懲罰我們。」

Denmark has followed the lead of other European countries, such as France and Belgium, in banning clothing which obscures the face. The law prohibits any face coverage, with the exception of "reasonable" cases. Otherwise, the fine is 1,000 Danish Krone ($150).

丹麥，以及其他幾個歐洲國家，例如法國和比利時，禁止遮擋面部的服裝。法律禁止任何面部的遮擋，除非有"合理的"案例。否則，將會被處以1000丹麥克朗罰款。

The Wardrobe of Rebellion (via BBC)

你怎麼看這些國家女性的衣櫥革命？歡迎留言分享你的觀點！

整合：Du Qiongfang

原文：BBC

圖／題圖：BBC